Day trip to La Graciosa

[Josie]

As I've promised to tell the whole story I'm copying from the other thread my notes from last weekend.

The Orzola trip was really easy.  There are loads of ferries.  There is a timetable for one of the companies in The Gazette but it is quite safe just to turn up and get on the next one though I would be more careful on a Spanish bank holiday.  We left Playa Blanca in our hire car at 9AM aiming for the 10AM ferry out but thought it would be a close call even going by the quickest route (round the Arrecife bypass and through Guatiza).  When we realised that we were not going to get there in time (it took just over an hour but we needed 10 mins to find a parking space in Orzola) we stopped and took pics of the white beaches just outside the village.  

After finding a parking space (not as easy as it used to be) we went down to the port, bought tickets and went for a coffee while waiting for our ferry.  There are 2 companies so if you buy a return you have to check carefully the return times of your company.  The price if €20 return for an adult (residents half price).  the ferry ride was a pleasant 30 mins or so and it wasn't at all rough - though from previous personal experience we know it can be.  We hadn't been to the island for years and it is already a lot more developed than last time.  It feels now just like a small Greek island in the Cyclades used to feel though with less people.  All the activity is around Caleta del Sebo the main village and the rest of the island is much quieter.

We last went to La Graciosa over 5 years ago and the main town then had only dirt roads, no cars and only one restaurant.  The Lanzarote walking guide recommended that you give the restaurant advance warning of your intention to eat there.  That time we walked round to the west of the island past a salina salt pan area to a very pretty beach which the tour boat companies now use to do water sports.  We got nearly as far as the yellow coloured mountain where we could see "hippy" caves such as used to exist in the old days at Papagayo.

This time we wanted to go round to the east especially as the wind was blowing a gale from the west and it looked like rain, but knew that as we wouldn't be on the ferry until 11AM and as the one we wanted to get back was at 5pm we didnt have time to walk very far.  Also we fancied chilling over a few beers and lunch.
 
The fery ride was great with very few people on board.  When we arrived we saw the enormous new paved area of the ferry dock and several buildings with signs on - restaurants, bars and shops.  Not many of them but lots more than last time.   We walked east along the coast out to town - the streets are still dirt but several of them are being dug up to lay services and lots of houses have been done up or are in the course of being done up.  Unbelieveable views from the properties along the front towards the Famara cliffs.  The next town we could see from the ferry was miles away.  As it seemed to be full of trees we were quite interested in going there.  We decided to walk back into town and have another look at the 4WD vehicles which were parked near the port and looked like they were for hire.  A German man who owned a Landrover 110 (long wheel base) offered to take us on a tour lasting 1.5 hours for 20 euros each.  We agreed to meet him after lunch.

We asked him about the restaurant at the back of the square  but he said go to the one round the corner - it's better.  Good advice as we found ourselves in a quirky cafe/bar/restaurant called Tierra with the worst English translations I think I've ever seen.  After we'd ordered a couple of beers we took a look around - lots of eccentric characters mainly locals playing what appeared to be gambling games, having coffees etc and a few nervous looking tourists wondering if they were in the right place.  We were.

To be continued..

[John B]

Great so far, but don't keep us in suspense!

[Josie]

I've got the day job to do John!  Best bit to come is the OAPs singing, or possibly the young girls dancing!

[Josie]

Continuing the tale ....

Lunch was good and cheap - salad, puntillas, "jumped vegetables" which were sauteed peppers, mushrooms etc plus Canarian potatoes and bread and possibly a glass or two of vino if my memory is correct.  I went in to find the loo and a man in a full wetsuit walked out as I was walking in and when I found the Ladies I had to walk past a local in a beret who was having a pee without bothering to close the door - all part of the atmosphere!

We met up again with our new German friend and here is a pic of his Landie and of our lunch spot before it got busy!

[Josie]

We set off in a North Easterly direction and were amazed on such a barren island to hear (and see) that every resident family was entitled to what can best be described as an allotment to grow fruit and veg - very important to keep rabbits out though!  Here is a pic of one.

[John B]

" I went in to find the loo and a man in a full wetsuit walked out "  How encouraging!

Next installment tomorrow?

[Josie]

Next we arrived at the rather spooky village of Pedro Barba full of holiday homes but abandoned for most of the year.  I'll leave the heap of whale bones in the centre of the village to your imagination. You can see it when you visit. The last pic which I also posted on the other thread is of the view back towards Famara.  Imagine seeing that out of your window every day!

[Josie]

Having problems resizing photos - much easier when I put them on FB first!  Yes John - next instalment tomorrow.

[Karen13]

Lovely pictures xx

[Madstock]

I'm loving this thread. 

Well done Josie but have I got to wait till I return from work tonight to get my next fix? 

[Josie]

As my audience is so demanding I might type another instalment at lunchtime - I've got rather a lot of work on today!

[Madstock]

I'm sure I can wait. It will make my day go quicker actually. 

[Flash]

Great thread, can't wait for the dancing girls.

[John B]

Don't worry Flash.  They'll be what we used to call "the Ladies from the Jam factory" - Women of a certain age doing an indeterminate morris-type dance, each wearing about three hundredweight of skirts, blouses, waistcoats, bonnets and boots, whilst their husbands play guitars with a scowl, and the occasional smile when they remember they're in show biz. The same outfit performs from Tenerife to Moscow with minute costume changes!

[Flash]

Sounds great